| If
you don't have the ability to parallel park to shore on a nice
beach (like you see here), use the following photos below to get in and out of a
loaded canoe. (The following would be the procedure used for 95% of all the portages in the BWCA/Quetico Park and anywhere there's water and a canoe) |
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| Step 1: The bow paddler holds the bow of the canoe down by sitting on it and bracing canoe with knees and firm grip on gunwales with each hand. Note: Canoe is floating entirely with the exception of the bow which is just barely touching the shore. |  |
| Step 2: The stern paddler enters with one foot starting to bend forward to grab the gunwales (sides). Use paddle for a brace only temporarily. Set it in canoe out of way before proceeding. Ideally, you should set your paddle on your canoe seat before getting in. Less stuff to think about then. Little brown dog is interested. |  |
| Step 3: As stern paddler continues to the back of the canoe, he slides his hands along the gunwales maintaining 3 points of contact at all time. (i.e., both hands on gunwales and one foot down or both feet down and one hand up, etc.) You can walk off center when using this technique for walking around the canoe. |  |
| Step 4: Stern guy sort of pronates himself kind of like doing a push up as he begins crawling over or stepping along side of gear. All the while, he's sliding hands along gunwales. |  |
| Step 5: Taking another step wherever there's a hole to put a foot down. DO NOT stand on seats or thwarts (crossbars). Ok to kneel on seats, but NOT on thwarts. You will bend the thwart on any make canoe including aluminums. Also watch for fishing rod tips. |  |
| Step 6: Continue to crawl over top of gear maintaining lowered center of gravity. Notice that bow paddler is still strongly bracing in the same position. As long as there are 3 points of contact, stern paddler can step off-center and around packs. The time elapsed has only been a few seconds at the most. |  |
| Step 7: Stern paddler keeps heading to the back while always maintaining contact with gunwales. Bow paddler is still holding strong, canoe is floating entirely, little brown dog is still watching and waiting. |  |
| Step 8: Almost to the back seat, nothing changes still. Hands on gunwales, lowered position, bow paddler holding strong. |  |
| Step 9: This is the trickiest part - turning around. Stern paddler now must remain crouched and stand in center of canoe with both feet because he has to let go of one gunwale to turn around. Unless you have special, extra long arms, everybody has to let go eventually. |  |
| Step 10: Move smoothly and with purpose. Stay low. Move your hands to the gunwales immediately You can lolligag, watch the loons, dink around, etc., after you are seated! |  |
| Step 11: Seated at last! Time elapsed: 10 seconds. Bow paddler STILL holds canoe in SAME floating position. |  |
| Step 12: Stern paddler now braces canoe with paddle so bow paddler can get in canoe. |  |
| Step 13: Bow paddler steps in holding both gunwales maintaining 3 points of contact. Little brown dog got tired of watching. More excitement on the other end of the beach. |  |
| Step 14: Bow paddler repeats Step 9 to perfection. |  |
| Step 15: Bow paddler repeats Step 10 just like the stern paddler did. Moving smoothly, with purpose, crouched and on center. |  |
| Step 16: Seated and completely dry. |  |
| Step 17: Pick up paddle and gently push canoe away from shore. Total time elapsed: about 20 seconds |  |
| Now you've seen how to get into a canoe while keeping
your feet completely dry. After paddling to your destination,
simply reverse this technique. Remember, proper canoeing etiquette
means NOT slamming ANY canoe into shore at 30 MPH regardless
of how many times you've done this in the past or have seen it
done to an old aluminum canoe. For proper landing, please read
on. LANDING YOUR CANOE When approaching shore, both paddlers drag their paddles (blades perpendicular to the sides of the canoe) on opposite sides of the canoe essentially putting on the brakes. Then the bow paddler reaches out and touches the shore (or lake bottom in shallow waters) with the paddle to break the final impact to the bow. For the bow paddler, the idea is to NOT let the canoe hit the shore hard. Absorb the shock with your arms and paddle. Don't worry about the tip of the paddle. If it's a modern paddle and not a complete cheapie, then it will have a nice tip guard made just for this. Don't use the handle of your paddle even is you learned that in scouts. All it does is chew up the place where you'll be putting your hand for the next 7 days and you don't need that. From the now stationary canoe, the bow paddler gets out and holds down the bow while the canoe remains resting completely on the water. DO NOT help out your partner by lifting the front end of the canoe and dragging him into shore. When you lift up the front of the canoe, your partner is now riding on the stem or skinny stern of the canoe which is like standing on a tightrope. This is where 80% of all canoe rollovers occur and from this instance many people try to declare that the canoe is tippy. In reality, there are no tippy canoes, only tippy people. Tipping at the portage unexpectedly could result in your partner hitting a rock with his head. That's not good when you're way out in the woods, so learn the proper way to do it. With the big guy in the back, the canoe will want to "pop a wheelie". Holding down the bow increases the wetted surface of the canoe which means that the stabilty of the canoe will remain high because there's a lot of water supporting it throughout its length and width. Sitting on the bow and bracing with your knees is easier than just pushing the bow down with your hands and provides better support for the live load (the guy in back). Repeat the same steps in photos above as the stern paddler moves forward hands sliding on the gunwales and everyone is on shore with DRY FEET. I have now given this speech 50,000 times, hopefully seeing it in pictures and words will make all canoers better canoers. Enjoy. JB |
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